Hunting a Unicorn
Through the Ages
We looked up in awe at the magnificent Lambley Viaduct towering over us. The weather which had been kind and tempted us out for a walk had now turned ugly and rain pelted us like bullets, driven by a ferocious winter wind. The sky was as grey as the roughly hewn stone of the viaduct and getting darker. Winter was coming, and coming fast. November in the UK wasn’t quite what I had in mind when we first put this plan into action but never mind, we were making the best of the situation even if we were getting a bit soggy. It had stayed dry long enough to eat our sandwiches and that was something to be thankful for.
The river raced below our feet as we stood on the lower, more modern, footbridge and gazed up. Opened in 1852 as part of the Haltwhistle to Alston line to carry coal and lead from the mines, the viaduct is a relic of the area’s industrial past. The rail line closed in 1976 and the viaduct began to age and fall into disrepair before being given a new life, renovated and reopened as part of the South Tyne trail. Comprised of 17 stone arches and only three and half metres wide, the tall but narrow structure is a testament to Victorian engineering skill.
It had been a walk through history as much as through nature as we passed Featherstone Castle and the remains of Prisoner of War Camp 18 on our walk along the river before reaching the viaduct.
Taking a break from house hunting, we settled for a few days at a small and an unbelievably peaceful site in Northumberland. Easy walking and beautiful views over the north Pennines allowed for some relaxation and given us time to reflect on the journey so far.
The Right Move
Our meandering and somewhat indirect route had so far taken us through Yorkshire, Country Durham, Northumberland and then across to Cumbria. What had started as a mission to look around for something to rent and morphed into a shopping trip. Buying a property was a very different proposition to renting one and we’d kind of ruined ourselves as we looked at beautiful old villages; all stone built, slate roofed and steeped in history. Perfect areas to rent for a few months, but not able to meet our requirements for what we think we need to buy at this time.
A reset of our aspirations was needed, this wasn’t a forever home – this was somewhere secure that could be left unattended, small and well insulated to keep running costs affordable, and generally low maintenance. At the same time, it needed space to park the van and work on it when it demanded attention. It might be a Toyota, but it’s still a thirty year old Toyota and does have its moments. Apparently we also needed storage space for things that shouldn’t be stored in the living room, such as engine oil and axle stands. This came as something of a surprise to me and probably ruled out a flat.
Our search took us from tiny flats in blue plaque’d buildings to new builds with problematic restrictive covenants and everything in-between. Did we find what we’re looking for? Maybe. We didn’t find the unicorn that met every requirement on the list. We’ll take some time to think about one we liked and consider if it’s a horse or a donkey. Maybe it’ll turn out to be Shadowfax, although I expect we’d get Gazumped by Gandolf.
Home Is Where You Park It
The year was marching on and it was getting harder to find campsites where we could empty, fill and charge. Demand for campsites is low at this time of year and just to make things harder, many of the places we were using would be shutting in January. After a long dry summer, sudden heavy downpours caused grass sites to get waterlogged and many advertised as open all year had shut to protect the ground.
Winter is a tricky time to camp in the UK. Little sunlight and a low sun anyway makes solar pretty irrelevant. The miles we were doing between viewings were not enough for the DC-DC charger to work it’s magic. It’s damp and the heater is constantly running keeping us warm as well as drying the van and an assortment of towels. I don’t know how long term van dwellers in the UK manage it and I look forward to the time we can follow the geese south. For now, we’ll just add another battery, an early Christmas present for the van.
Noddy’d In November
With Christmas approaching the housing market slows, so it was time to head back to the place formally known as home for a few weeks. Catch up with some friends and family, then move all the boxes out of the living room and generally smarten the place up ahead of the rush of viewings I’m confidently expecting in January. Godzuki! needs a little pampering as well, along with an MOT.
Before the long journey back it was off to the city of Durham, where the council has the forethought to let vans overnight at the park and ride. A short bus ride into the beautiful centre and the UNESCO listed cathedral area was a delight, the Christmas lights enhancing the atmosphere and the producers market within the cathedral cloisters added a different sensory sensation. The path along the river was quiet and peaceful and provided a respite from the crowded streets.
We weren’t ready, but it was time for the journey back.