Following the Sun

Instead of a raging Atlantic pummelling lithe bodies wrapped in neoprene we find something closer to a millpond. A few paddle out and coast back in, but most sit around in the sunshine while waiting for the return of bigger waves.

We leave disappointed and find a quieter spot along the coast where we spend a couple of days camped up in the sand dunes enjoying lazy days watching lazy waves.

Camped by the arches of an ancient viaduct, we enter the fortified town of Óbidos through a main gate that is wrapped in a giant red ribbon. Once inside we find narrow, cobbled streets and brightly decorated shops that are busy with people. At night the town is festively lit up. It’s a charming place and full of character, despite being mostly restaurants and gift shops. We take to the city walls for a quieter bird’s eye view.

Sintra itself feels a bit Disneyfied. The park and the palaces are magnificent but it’s a hilly place and consequently a flotilla of rickshaws, carriages, electric buggies styled like old time cars hurtle around town to service the tourist trade. We decided to walk instead and burn off the calories from the tasty pastries that are available, well, everywhere. Pastries are something that Portugal excels at.

Leapfrogging Lisbon we head for the Algarve. The weather is decent and we enjoy the sandy beaches, craggy cliffs and a bit of history. In Sagres we visit the fortified headland, a curtain wall creating a fort out of the rugged clifftop that juts out into the sea. It feels wild and windswept and must have felt quite desolate to the soldiers stationed here in bygone times.

We get a recommendation for a campsite, Mickeys, the Place to Stay. It seems it’s popular with those that like to stay long term in one place, but we only check in for a couple of nights. It’s a busy bustling place but with a laid back vibe. It’s located a bit out of the way and is incredibly artsy and we like it.

A couple of Dutch ladies fall in love with the van and appear at the door with a sticker they made from a photo of him resting in the late autumn sunshine. How nice is that? It gets pride of place on a kitchen cupboard door. We don’t question why anyone would be carrying a sticker maker. The answer is obviously ‘Joy’.

After a stay in Salir for some hill walking and recovery pastries, we make our last stop in Portugal in Vila Real Santo Antonio and wander out along a rocky arm to Portugal’s most south easterly point, returning via the town’s Christmas market. We’re getting addicted to the little chocolate cups filled with a cherry liquor they sell at these events.