North Portugal
November
We cross into north eastern Portugal and stop in Bragança, a walled town with a castle centrepiece. The municipality has kindly provided a perfect motorhome parking area just outside the walls which makes visiting very easy.
We visit the castle then wander the cobbled streets, mostly whitewashed and terracotta tiled. Vacant plots, cleared of the rubble of the collapsed building have giant murals painted on on the walls.
Despite the lateness of the year, colourful flowers that adorn many of the houses and gardens. It’s a thoroughly peaceful place to be.
Hilltop Views
With four wheel drive engaged, we bounce and wobble up a rough track to a remote hilltop. At the summit we find another castle, Castelo de Monforte de Rio Livre.
This one feels rather abandoned but it has a magnificent view over the surrounding countryside. It’s only small and doesn’t take long to explore. There’s no one around and we decide to stay put for the night but it’s exposed and as the wind increases we have to shuffle the van around to find at least some protection while not risking having a tree fall on us.
We survive the night but don’t learn the lesson. Following a cobbled road that snakes up the side of Monte de Santa Mamede we find more far reaching views and it’s pretty quiet despite being an obviously popular view point with swings, seating and a little church. There are a few people up here for the sunset and then it’s just us and the increasingly ferocious wind.
Maybe we have learned a little though, we think ahead this time and nestle ourselves into a protected spot before darkness falls.
Sea Level
Dropping down and westward to Ponte de Lima, Portugal’s oldest vila, we marvel at the medieval bridge that spans the wide racing river and the beautiful buildings that make up the older part of town. I also discover Portuguese coffee in one of the many cafes. It’s quite wonderful and probably quite strong. Still, being fairly impervious to caffine I sleep well in our riverside parkup.
We get our first taste of the Portuguese coast at Esposende. The beach that is a mix of soft sand, rounded stones and lazy waves to the north, a wide esplanade to the south for evening strolls. In one of the many sea view bars we stop to watch the sun set and try another of Portugal’s staples, Super Bock. It’s tame stuff despite being not at all impervious to alcohol and it’s perfect for the warm days we are expecting.
Following the coast a little there is a popular spot decorated with disused windmills. It’s busy and parking is at a premium and we squeeze into what we think is the last spot, our extra ground clearance allowing us access to an otherwise inaccessible parking space. At least, that’s what I thought until a car managed to get in next to us, ripping his front bumper off in the process.
The entertainment was followed by a pleasant walk along the sandy beach under the view of the now sail less windmills.
Wine O’Clock
Heading back inland, the guidebook recommends Vila Real but it doesn’t really do anything for me. Rosana is more positive about it. The scenery outside though, now that we have arrived in the Duoro region, is special. Rolling hills golden with grape vines, they are especially pretty at sunset. Port is Portugal’s more famous alcoholic product, but wine is also produced in the Duoro region .
We visit a vineyard that offers camping, tasting and vineyard tour all for free. Of course, they are confident in their products and predictably we and everyone else leave with fuller vans than we arrived with. Wine, port, cheese, olive oil. All tastes seem catered for.
Where Vila Real had left me a little cold to Portuguese cities, Lemago is a joy. The long walk up the steep steps to the hilltop church, taking in the tiled murals on the walls, the gardens and the magnificent views over city is thoroughly worthwhile. Then it’s all the way back down, through the centre and up through narrow streets to the small well preserved Castle which gives a different view over the city and the surrounds
We see a great looking parking spot on Park4Night a few kilometres away. We follow steep serpentine roads up into the hills, sometimes even the right roads. Passing a few interesting looking spots with great views but litter strewn we take a turning off the road and follow a logging track. It starts to get broken up, gravelly, steeper and loose so I lock the hubs and press the magic four wheel drive button. The views are magnificent and I’m looking forward to this parking place. Turning the final corner there is a Land Rover already camped in the spot. Gah!
You’d have to be pretty good friends to get two vehicles into the space so we reverse a short distance before carefully executing a 17 point turn and go in search of another place to spend the night, ending up next to a river in Peso de Régua.
When Not In Venice
Aveiro is a popular tourist destination, with its pretty old town, salt pans and canals. Unsurprisingly it is busy with motorhomes but we manage to bag the last space in the town’s dedicated camper area. From there it is a pleasant walk past the old ceramics factory and along the canal with it’s brightly decorated bridges. It has become fashionable to tie a brightly coloured ribbon to the pedestrian bridges that span the canal and the bridges now all sport bright coats of ribbon.
Meanwhile, brightly painted gondoliers filled with visitors are propelled along the canals. Some of the paintings on the gondoliers are quite suggestive and reminiscent of the 1970’s era ‘saucy’ postcards of the British seaside resorts. Benny Hill would be happy here.
The Old Capital
The old Portuguese capital of Coimbra is now a busy university town. The old walled city looks over the wide river below, lined with parkland and cafes. The decorations are up in town and a Christmas market is setting up in the park. The vendors tell us it will be opening at the weekend and we are a little surprised because it’s still mid November. It’s also quite warm, so it will be interesting to see Santa in shorts and flip flops so we decide to stick around.
Within the city walls the paths are steep and the already pretty streets are brightened with festive lighting. Atop the hill sit the magnificent university buildings. The area is busy, bustling with students moving between lectures and tourists moving between photo opportunities. There’s a clear age different between the two and I am feeling rather old.
Still November, Merry Christmas
We rarely leave the van after dusk, mostly for the security of the van. We’ve parked up in a residential area. There are other vans here, some that look like they are being stored by locals. The local hire car company is also using the road for car storage, so we fell relatively comfortable leaving the van and heading into the Christmas market. First we take in the town’s decorations, all lit up on this warm autumn evening.
The fountain in the river is dancing to its own rhythm, the pattern and lighting ever changing.
It’s opening night for the market and it’s busy. The fairground rides are full of children, a decorated road train is bumbling around full of young families. There’s various Disney characters wandering around and of course, guest of honour, Santa Clause. He’s a little thinner than I remember but at least he’s overdressed for the conditions.
There’s lots of local produce on offer and the market is very food based. This is fine by me and reminds me of the German markets, more social occasion than anything. We sample a cheese which is phenomenal, matched to an equally phenomenal price, very out of line with our retirement budget. Luckily they also sell it in a very crusty baguette, along with some rather tasty ham, so that’s dinner sorted. A glass of local red to wash it down as well? Why not, it’s Christmas after all. Almost.
Flickr Albums: Braganca | Montoforte Castle | Monte de Santa Memede | Ponte de Lima | Esposende | Apulia | Ovar and Maceda | Vila Real | Peso de Regua | Quinta da Padrela | Lamego | Aveiro | Luso and Trezoi | Penacova | Coimbra | Batalha